The health of your exotic pet

Rabbits are small diurnal (active during the day) mammals of the Lagomorphe family. They differ from their close cousins, rodents, in that they have an additional pair of mini incisor teeth, behind the upper visible ones. Their longevity is approximately 6-13 years, and they reach sexual maturity at around 6 months of age. They are herbivorous, and should eat principally fresh vegetables (ideally greens), and hay, but commercial pellets and fruits in small quantities can complete their diet. Rabbits produce two types of feces: firm round pellets, and soft, mucoid caecotrophes rich in vitamins and protein, that they consume directly form the anus at night.

Rabbits are sociable animals, but are very sensitive to stress. They can live in small groups, but territorial aggression can occur, and therefore sterilisation is recommended, particularly in males, especially when kept in too small cages.

They can be trained to use a litter, and although they can be kept loose in the home like cats, rabbit-proofing electrical wires is wise. If kept in a cage, it is recommended to offer them a minimum of 1-2 hours of freedom per day. But beware of its chewing tendencies!

We do not recommend using cages with wire floors because they can cause foot injuries (pododermatitis). Pine and cedar shavings and cat litter are also not recommended as they can be dusty and irritating to the respiratory tract as well as toxic if ingested. We recommend using recycled paper bedding, corn cob granules, straw, or better still, straw granules (ex. Oxbow Eco straw, or Critter care…). Many rabbits will often use a litter if placed in the corner of its cage.

* It is important to consult a veterinarian annually with your rabbit as they demonstrate few symptoms even when really ill!

Common diseases:

• dental diseases: malocclusion, dental abscesses and root elongation
• obesity
• urine sludge/retention/infection
• syphilis
• skin problems:  ringworm, cheyletiella mites, pododermatitis
• heat-stroke (contrary to what people think, rabbits are more sensitive to heat than cold!)
• pneumonia

The guinea pig (or cavy) is a small diurnal rodent, and not at all related to pigs as its name may suggest. Herbivorous, they eat principally grass (hay) and fresh greens, but small quantities of grains and fruits can be offered. Its longevity is 4 to 6 years, and it reaches sexual maturity at around 3 months of age for males, and 2 months for females. 

 Like humans and primates, the guinea pig is unable to synthesize its own vitamin C, therefore a daily supplementation is required in order to prevent scurvy. This supplement can often be found in pill form which must to crushed and sprinkled on wet food. We do not recommend to put the powder in water, because Vitamin C will oxidize and change the taste of the water, decreasing water consummation and causing dehydration.

The guinea pig is very sociable but males can be territorial. They can be kept in large groups if the cages are large enough. We do not recommend using cages with wire floors because they can cause foot injuries (bumblefoot). Pine and cedar shavings are also not recommended as they can be dusty and irritating to the respiratory tract as well as toxic if ingested. We recommend using recycled paper bedding, corn cob granules, straw, or better still, straw granules (ex. Oxbow Eco straw, or Critter care…).

Frequent diseases:

• Skin problems: scabies, ringworm, pododermatitis
• Ovarian cysts
• Scurvy (lack of vitamin C)
• Gastric stasis and enterotoxaemia

The ferret is a small carnivorous mammal that is highly energetic and endearing. Very social and curious, it can get lonely and easily into trouble without good supervision. Ferrets loves to steal small objects to hide them! They need close surveillance when they are loose because they have a tendency to eat and swallow everything they may find. Its longevity is 5 to 8 years, and it reaches sexual maturity at around 5 to 9 months of age.

Ferrets have anal and skin glands that produce a strong distinctive musky odor. And although most of all ferrets are sold already sterilised and de-scented (their anal glands removed), they will still produce a scent that can be unpleasant to certain people. Even a bath will not completely eliminate their odor and too many baths may irritate their skin glands and accentuate the problem).

Ferrets have a very rapid digestive system and a very high metabolism, requiring them to eat often. Therefore it is very important that the ferret has access to food at all time to reduce de risks of hypoglycemia (low bllod glucose). The ideal food for the ferret is one with an important supply of proteins and several pelleted commercial foods are available, but it can also be fed a good quality kitten food. We recommend a cage with many levels and several hours of freedom and play daily. Ferrets enjoy sleeping in a hammock or small blankets and they can be potty trained to use a litter.

    Ferrets are highly sensitive to the canine Distemper virus, which is incurable. Therefore it is important for them to be vaccinated regularly especially if the are taken outside or come into contact with dogs. There is also a Rabies vaccine for ferrets that can be given as of 3 months old, and then annually. If you intend on bringing your ferret outside during the summer, it is recommended to treat it once a month against intestinal parasites, external parasites, and heartworms.

Frequent diseases:

• Influenza (human flu): If you suffer from the flu, diminish the contacts with your ferret and wash your hands as often possible.  
• Insulinoma: a tumor affecting the pancreas causing hypoglycemia.
• Hyperadrenocroticism (HAC): tumours of the adrenal glands causing hair loss and pruritus(itching).
• Lymphoma (cancer)
• Ingestion of foreign bodies

*We recommend an annual examination in order to detect early-on stages any of those typical ferret diseases.

Rats are small mammals in the rodent family who are mainly active at night (nocturnal). Affectionate and sociable, they enjoy living in groups and build close bonds with their owners. Their longevity is 2 to 3 years, and they reach sexual maturity at around 4 to 5 weeks old. Like humans, rats are omnivorous, and therefore can eat anything we can (cereal, fruits, vegetables, meat, eggs, etc.) although commercial pellets exist and are useful to complete and balance their diet.

Intelligent and agile, we recommended to place them in the biggest possible cage and entertain them with accessories like PVC pipes, exercise wheels, cardboard boxes etc. Avoid wire-bottom cages to prevent foot injuries. It is not recommended to use cat litter, cedar or pine shavings as substrates in the bottom of the cage as they can be very dusty and irritating to the sensitive respiratory tract rodents. We recommend using recycled paper bedding, corn cob granules, straw, or better still, straw granules (ex. Oxbow Eco straw, or Critter care…).

Frequent diseases:

• Mammary tumors:  usually benign but may become huge!
• Respiratory syndromes
• Parasites: lice
• Chromodacryorhea : red-brown pigmented tears produced when stressed

The mouse is a small mammal is the rodent family. Its longevity is 1 to 3 years, and it reaches sexual maturity around 6 weeks of age. Highly active, a wheel is a must in its cage. Like rats, mice can produce red-brown pigmented tears produced when stressed (chromodacryorhea).

It is not recommended to use cat litter, cedar or pine shavings as substrates in the bottom of the cage as they can be very dusty and irritating to the sensitive respiratory tract rodents. We recommend using recycled paper bedding, corn cob granules, straw, or better still, straw granules (ex. Oxbow Eco straw, or Critter care…).

Frequent diseases:

• Lice
• Dermatitis (esp. facial)
• Respiratory syndromes

Hamsters are small, nocturnal mammals in the rodent family. Its longevity is 1 ½ to 3 years and it reaches sexual maturity around 6 weeks old. Solitary by nature, they like to live alone and can be stressed if housed in groups. They can be aggressive if they are not approached carefully, especially when asleep (hamsters can achieve a state of near-hibernation), but can be trained to be easily manipulated. They have poor eye-sight and are known to easily fall off of jump from tables. They possess cheek pouches that serve to transport and hoard food and have 2 symmetric scent glands on their flanks or bellies that can be misconstrued as wounds.

They are omnivorous and although many commercial diets are available, the addition of fresh vegetables, fruits, seeds and nuts is appreciated.

Pine and cedar shavings are not recommended as cage substrates as they can be dusty and irritating to the respiratory tract as well as toxic if ingested. We recommend using recycled paper bedding, corn cob granules, straw, or better still, straw granules (ex. Oxbow Eco straw, or Critter care…).

Frequent diseases:

• Gastro-enteritis (wet-tail)
• Eye-infections 

The chinchilla and the lesser known degu (octodon) are herbivores in the rodent family. Chinchillas are well known for their soft fur and were hunted to near extinction by humans in their native Andes. Degus are also known as bush-tailed rats and have become popular in diabetes research laboratories.

Both are social creatures, and while the degu is principally active in daytime, the chinchilla that is more crepuscular. Degus much prefer to live in groups and we recommend always having more than one. A spacious multi-levelled cage is preferred, with hiding holes as they are burrowers. The degu’s longevity is 4 to 8 years and it reaches sexual maturity at 75 days old. For the chinchilla, the longevity is about 10 years and it reaches sexual maturity around 8 months. Both have very long gestation periods for rodents (90 and 111 days). Also distinctive, is their propensity to lose their tails when seized by them (and it won’t grow back!)

Their diet should be composed of hay (almost exclusively), but very small quantities of vegetables and grains cab be offered. They are highly sensitive to sugar and can easily become diabetic. Like rabbits, the degu and the chinchilla both consume caecotrophes (specially produced soft feces rich in vitamins and nutrients).

A sand bath (commercial volcanic sand is available) should be offered every 2 days for minimum 30 minutes to aid in grooming. It’s not recommended to leave the sand bath in the cage so the animal doesn’t mistake it for a litter.

Frequent degu’s diseases:

• Tail-sloughing
• Dental problems
• Diabetes

Frequent chinchilla’s diseases:

• Dental malocclusion
• Constipation
• Fur-ring; strangulation of the  penis by a ring of fur
• Heatstroke

The hedgehog is a small nocturnal, omnivorous mammal with a stout body covered by modified hairs or quills, in a family of its own (Erinaceidae). Unlike porcupines they are not rodents, and do not shed their quills for protection. Their teeth are much like cats’ (pointy canines) and quite unlike porcupines (like rabbits with long front incisors).

Its longevity is about 7 to 10 years and it will reach its sexual maturity around the age of one. The hedgehog is endowed with a poor vision but a very well developed sense of smell and forage for food with their noses to the ground. It is a solitary animal who hates living among other hedgehogs and needs a warm (22 to 24 degrees) environmental habitat to avoid hibernation. The can be trained to be easily manipulated by their owners but will curl up protectively with strangers.

Being an omnivorous with insectivorous tendencies, the hedgehog will need a varied diet. You need to offer him hedgehog food or good quality cat food for hairballs (high fibre). You can also need to offer him insects from time to time (crickets, worms and mealworms). Also it is possible to offer him in small quantities some fruits and vegetables, egg, and small quantities of boiled meat.

A transparent plastic tank is a good habitat for the hedgehog. We recommend offering the hedgehog a plastic solid wheel (without bars to avoid injuries). It’s important for him to exercise to avoid obesity. The hedgehog is generally a clean mammal, and a litter with low sides could be used. Pine and cedar shavings are not recommended. A leaf litter, paper, or a blanket is a better option.

Frequent diseases:

• Obesity
• Wobbly (genetic disease causing progressive paralysis)
• Ringworm
• Mites
• Urinary infections
• Uterus cancer 

Contrary to popular beliefs, birds do not only eat seeds! Birds are omnivorous. Their diet must be composed seeds, grains, fruits and vegetables and protein sources as well. The importance is to diversify the bird’s diet. Birds who are only seed fed have tendency to develop nutritional deficiencies and obesity.

Birds have relatively long lives: their longevity varies depending on the species, and as a general rule small birds live upwards of 10 years.

Your bird must bathe minimum once a week for his hygiene in a bath, shower, or with a spray.

The cage must be big enough for the bird to be able to get around, or better yet, fly. The width must be at least twice the distance between each ends of the wings, once they are fully expanded, and twice the distance between the head and the tail. It is important to vary the types, sizes and angles of perches to minimize leg injuries. Rough perches with sand paper covering is highly inadvisable because they cause excessive wear on the feet.  The cage should not be in direct sunlight and should be kept from drafty windows. A bath should be offered regularly, else a shower (spray bottle) is necessary for his hygiene.

Note: Teflon is highly toxic to birds (over-heating a frying pan (non-stick or T-Fal), heating carpets during installation).

Sick birds will hide their illness well, therefore by the time clinical signs appear, they are usually much more ill then we it appears. If your bird displays these signs, it needs to be seen by a veterinarian rapidly:

• staying at the bottom of the cage
• Tousled feathering (balled up)
• Half closed eyes
• Breathing with open beak
• constant tail bobbing up-down = breathing difficulties
• The wings are spread out or slouched/low
• Changes in singing habits

Frequent diseases:

• Canary: feather cysts (ingrown feathers), sores on legs due to identification rings.
• Parakeet: cancer, mites, chronic egg-laying, thyroid disease
• Lovebird: feather picking, chronic egg-laying, skin diseases 
• Cockatiel: obesity, respiratory problems, ocular problems

It is important to have your bird examined and weighed annually by a veterinarian in order to detect early any signs of disease.